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Tuesday, October 11, 2005

KE MEKKAH DAN MADINAH



SELAMA sepekan, dari 30 September sampai 8 Oktober, saya dan Mommy Uni Lubis ke Tanah Suci. Kami berdua umrah. Darrel ditinggal di rumah, diurus om, tante, eyang, dan opung. Enak kan, menjadi cucu tunggal, jadi bisa ke sana ke mari?

Kami berangkat dengan pesawat Garuda GA 980. Dari Jakarta jam 17 sore. Harusnya jam 14, tapi karena ada delay, menjadi molor. Tapi lantaran terlambat malah jadi enak. Kami sempat salat Jumat. Juga sempat makan siang dan sore. Berangkat dari rumah tidak terburu-buru.

Ini merupakan kepergian kami berdua ke Tanah Suci Mekkah al Mukarammah (Mekkah yang diberkahi Allah). Pertama kali, kami pergi pada 2000, waktu naik haji. Ketika itu, karena duit cekak banget, kami pergi dengan ONH biasa. Wah, pengalamannya menyeramkan.

Untuk ikut ONH biasa dibutuhkan fisik ekstra prima. Selama 40 hari di Saudi Arabia, badan kita digempur angin gurun, badai, hawa panas di atas 40 derajat, serta sesekali dingin yang begitu menggigil. Kulit kita, juga fisik, ditarik olor ke sana ke mari. Di penginapan, saya tidur bersembilan orang. Mommy lebih beruntung. Ia di kamar hanya bertujuh. Ketahanan fisik mommy lebih teruji. Ia sama sekali tidak sakit. Sedang saya harus kena flu, kena batuk, kehilangan suara, dan berbagai teler lainnya.

Haji dan umrah sebetulnya hampir sama. Bedanya, kalo haji ada ritual wuquf di Arafah, berhenti di Muzdalifah untuk mengambil batu, melempar jumrah, serta menginap di Mina. Keduanya, baik haji maupun umrah, diniatkan sebagai kegiatan untuk napak tilas perjuangan Nabi Ibrahim.

Umrah kali ini perjalanannya tak seberat waktu haji. Waktunya hanya sepekan. Kami menginap di hotel bintang lima. Sekamar berdua. Lokasi hotel dengan pelataran Masjidil Haram tak lebih dari 15 meter. Sewaktu haji dulu, jaraknya 2,5 kilometer. Lumayan jauh kan?

Kami pergi dengan Biro Umrah dan ONH Plus Maktour. Kalau lewat biro perjalanan, segalanya memang sudah diuruskan. Tidak usah menunggu bagasi, karena ada petugas Maktour yang menunggu. Makan? Juga sudah ada yang mengurus, tidak seperti waktu haji dulu, harus masak sendiri. Namun, ongkos memang lebih mahal. Biaya kami sepekan untuk umrah ini setara dengan biaya naik haji ONH biasa.

Begitu mendarat di Jeddah, kami menginap di Hotel Intercontinental. Ini hotel bintang lima, yang serba arab. Dindingnya saja dilapis karpet dan kaca. Hotelnya terletak di tengah padang pasir. Serba panas.

Di situ hanya semalam, keesokan paginya kami berangkat ke Madinah. Ini merupakan kota suci, yang di masa lalu menjadi pusat pemerintahan Nabi dan kekhalifahan sesudahnya. Di kota ini ada Masjid Nabawi, makam rasulullah, khalifah Umar, khalifah Abubakar.


Acara kami di Madinah hanya salat dan ngaji. Paginya, kami berwisata ke Masjid Qiblatain dan Masjid Quba.

Sorenya, sesudah asar, kami naik mobil berangkat ke Makkah, untuk mulai umrah. Miqat, atau batas pelaksanaan umrah, adalah Masjid Bir Ali. Ini masjid yang letaknya sekitar 30 Kilometer di luar Madinah. Di sini terdapat sumur peninggalan Khalifah Ali, yang ia pakai sebagai batas pelaksanaan ibadah haji, di masa lalu. Sejak dari Bir Ali, kami harus mengucapkan kalimat talbiyah. Kami juga wajib menggunakan baju ihram.


Kami tiba di Mekkah sesudah isya. Setelah meletakkan barang-barang di Hotel Intercontinental, kami berumrah. Lumayan, baru selesai jam 23-an. Kaki pegal-pegal. Sewaktu berhaji lima tahun lalu, kami sempat mengadakan persiapan lumayan. Olahraga tiap pagi, untuk latihan jalan kaki. Agar otot lemas. Kali ini nyaris tidak sama sekali. Padahal, umur makin tua lima tahun.

''Wah, betisku linu-linu,'' kata Mommy.
''Aku juga.''
Selama empat hari di Mekkah, waktu kami sebagian besar untuk mengaji, salat, dan umrah. Lainnya? Ya thawaf dan sa'i di Pasar Seng lah yaaawwwwwwwwwwww

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